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000902053 0247_ $$2doi$$a10.1016/j.surfin.2021.101486
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000902053 1001_ $$0P:(DE-HGF)0$$aWojciechowski, Kamil$$b0$$eCorresponding author
000902053 245__ $$aSurface-active extracts from plants rich in saponins – effect on lipid mono- and bilayers
000902053 260__ $$aAmsterdam$$bElsevier$$c2021
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000902053 520__ $$aThe aqueous extracts of the seeds of oat (Avena sativa L.), horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum L.), soybean (Glycine max L.), cowherb (Vaccaria hispanica [P. Mill.] Rauschert) and quinoa (Chenopodium quinoa Willd.), and the roots of soapwort (Saponaria officinalis L.) without any preservatives were characterized in terms of theirsurface tension, surface compression (dilational) rheology, foamability and foam stability. The saponin content in the extracts was determined using UPLC-MS and their interaction with model lipid monolayers consisting of dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine (DPPC)/cholesterol and Ceramide AP/stearic acid/cholesterol were analyzed by surface pressure relaxation, surface compression elasticity and neutron reflectometry (NR). The lipid composition was chosen to mimic the cell membrane of keratinocytes – major constituents of the human deeper skin layers, and the intercellular lipids (“mortar”) in the “bricks and mortar” model of the outermost layer of the epidermis (stratum corneum). Bilayers of DPPC/cholesterol were additionally characterized using dynamic light scattering (DLS) and NR. The oat and soybean extracts were shown to be much less abundant in saponins as compared to cowherb, horse chestnut, soapwort or quinoa, and showed limited foaming abilities. They did not affect significantly the model lipid mono- and bilayers mimicking the skin outer layers, either. The horse chestnut extract affected both model membranes to the highest extent, yet without solubilizing the lipids.
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000902053 7001_ $$0P:(DE-HGF)0$$aJurek, Ilona$$b1
000902053 7001_ $$0P:(DE-HGF)0$$aGóral, Ilona$$b2
000902053 7001_ $$0P:(DE-HGF)0$$aCampana, Mario$$b3
000902053 7001_ $$00000-0002-7932-5574$$aGeue, Thomas$$b4
000902053 7001_ $$0P:(DE-Juel1)168124$$aGutberlet, Thomas$$b5$$ufzj
000902053 773__ $$0PERI:(DE-600)2874399-4$$a10.1016/j.surfin.2021.101486$$gVol. 27, p. 101486 -$$p101486 -$$tSurfaces and Interfaces$$v27$$x2468-0230$$y2021
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